bike quality.
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jsk85 posted 16 weeks ago.
Well, I'm no expert, but there are a lot of questions here. First off, I'm assuming your current bike is pretty heavy since it's at the lower end of the pricing scale (aluminum frame?).
If that's the case, then you are going to have to work harder to go the same speed as people on lighter bikes. That being said, the difference isn't that huge compared to the difference good cycling ability makes. i ride a decently heavy frame and tend to pass more than I am passed. So, more expensive bikes make a difference, but the frame material/quality probably doesn't make as much of a difference as you are seeing.
What might make a difference is...do you have clipless pedals (w/ bike shoes). If not, then I'm assuming you have the toe clips. Biking w/ clipless pedals makes a pretty significant difference once you get used to them, so that may be a factor.
As far as aero upgrades...purchase them if you have expendable income, but it's probably not going to make a huge difference over 20k.
And to the gearing question. I'd say get your cadence up in the 80-90 range, then if you can maintain that on flats while switching to the top gears...go for it. You don't have to save yourself for the run, so kill it on the bike.
GL and someone more informed will be along shortly to give better answers
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Joe_H posted 16 weeks ago.
First off it's the engine not the bike. you are new to sport and cycling and these faster riders have probably been riding for a while longer than you.
Also you riding a fast lightweight bike that doesn't fit you won't help. sure a lighter more aerodynamic bike will help a bit but if it's for a bloke who's 4' 2" and you're 6'5" it ain't going to work to make an exaggerated point.
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mdd posted 16 weeks ago.
Joe_H wrote:
First off it's the engine not the bike. you are new to sport and cycling and these faster riders have probably been riding for a while longer than you.Also you riding a fast lightweight bike that doesn't fit you won't help. sure a lighter more aerodynamic bike will help a bit but if it's for a bloke who's 4' 2" and you're 6'5" it ain't going to work to make an exaggerated point.
I agree with this 100%. People often believe that a new expensive bike will make them much faster, etc but a really strong rider will be fast on anything they ride even a huffy mountain bike!
Just keep working hard and your speed will come, good luck!
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jsk85 posted 16 weeks ago.
I'm now just trying to picture someone who's 4'2 riding (on an appropriately miniaturized bike) next to someone 6'5 on theirs...great images in my head
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jonovision_man posted 16 weeks ago.
peter wild wrote:
they often appear to be in a lower gear than i am and putting in less effort yet cruising past me!! perhaps i should drop a few gears on the hills but then i feel i should be hammering down on either of my top two gears in a race thats only 20 km which is really quite flat. is that correct?
In a word: no! :)
Don't be scared of lower gears, they're your friend.
I used to do what you're describing - pick a high gear and try to stick to it no matter what... it's a bad bad way to ride. You want to find a gear you can do 90rpm cadence in, if you dip down to 80rpm then downshift.
This article is excellent:
http://tinyurl.com/azoyr
Good luck!
jono
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beads1985 posted 16 weeks ago.
Welcome to trifuel Peter.
As stated work on your cycling and don't worry about anybody else.
You wan to try and keep around 90 rpm so gear down as needed.
As you ride more you will find you are keeping up the 90 rpm at a higher gear.
Keep up the good work.
Nothing to it, but to do it
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peter wild posted 16 weeks ago.
Thanks for the feed back guys. It's all very helpful. To measure your cadence you just count presumably!? (bike computers wont do it?)
I hope its not too late to start a slightly different way of riding if i am competing on the 9th?
Anyway, thanks very much.
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1193 days
PJT posted 16 weeks ago.
Many bike computers have a cadence meter that attaches to the frame with a magnet on your pedal. A basic wired computer with cadence can be had for about $35 US. Wireless are more expensive. Unless you are a musician or percussionsist with a great internal metronome, I think it's tough to estimate cadence in your head with any degree of precision.
I am cycling on a £330 road bike and I'm a fairly fit 24 year old who is training relatively hard for a 20km sprint leg in the London Triathlon.
However when I go out and train, so many cyclists seem to go a lot faster than me! they often appear to be in a lower gear than i am and putting in less effort yet cruising past me!!
perhaps i should drop a few gears on the hills but then i feel i should be hammering down on either of my top two gears in a race thats only 20 km which is really quite flat. is that correct?
I am about to borrow a more expensive road bike from a friend.... how much of a difference does an expensive bike make when it comes to cycling??
Also, i assume its worth purchasing a cycling vest to improve the aerodynamics or is that clutching at straws!!?
Any other top tips are much appreciated! Peter